Gozo, wild island, our first impression of the Maltese islands.  Wind and rain, clouds and sun. Waves crashing. We had it all, sometimes all to ourselves, on an off-season February afternoon. Twenty-five minutes from the mainland via autoferry, but seemingly an entirely different world. A world of salt pans and citadels, ancient temples, secret caves, [...]

Horsey Gap

We went to Horsey for the seals, but they didn't wait for us year - save for a few friendly faces in the water. But the coast - the seasalt, the dunes, the sharp and bitter British wind; the coast was there, waiting, and that was worth the trip.


Kasbah, citadel. Sanctuary in the heart of Chefchaouen. Fresh oranages, fresh greens hidden in plain sight. We were the people eating outside under the umbrellas earlier, oblivious to the entirely different world, the one beyond the old stone walls in front of us. 


Chefchaouen, the blue city. Instagram-Pinterest-digitally-famous city, once sleepy, now overrun. People from all over the world - European, Middle-Eastern, Asian, Australian, African, South American people on the hill with us, watching the sunset. A girl from Jordan took our picture. Our hotel host had lived in Paris, Portugal, and Fes. And while it was very [...]

Riad Laaroussa Hammam

An evening at the hammam; tranquil, quiet, concealed. A contrast to the outside world, the medina from which we escaped as the sunset. The hammam, a bathing ritual, was our treat, a certain indulgence, but also an experience that we had been told we must have. Traditionally, a hammam is performed in the public bathhouses [...]

Chouara Tannery

The Chouara Tannery in Fez has existed for nearly one thousand years. Every day, every year, every moment ever since, it has operated exactly as it has since the beginning. Vats of cow urine, pigeon excrement, quicklime, salt, and water under the Moroccan sun.  Fresh animal carcasses submerged. The smell is vile; inhaling is made possible [...]