Downwind of the volcano is Panama, the poorest region of La Concha. The air is so chemically laced that the latches on exposed doors wear away within months. Water is so scarce during dry season that they cannot use toilets, even with donated NGO water tanks. But we are not here to see what they [...]

Volcán Masaya

Hiking the Masaya Volcano at dusk. Rock, ash, smoke, sulfur. We peer over the edge; we're close - the closest we can be to any active volcano in the world.  Up the slope, the steep, slippery slope. The view - there are no words that suffice.  Red smoke, red grass, red sunset. Jupiter glows over [...]

Finca de Pina

Our morning hike begins on the dirt roads of the town, winding through the streets, and eventually into the woods. It is only me, a retired British couple, and the local guide, who leads us straight through the brush and up the hillside, chattering in Spanish as he does. Along the way, coffee beans, oranges, [...]

Bar El Chanchito

The day was slow and relaxing. The evening, lively and fun. Slaughtered animals hang over the bar, a pot of nacatamales boils. An order of rum & juice yields only one full bottle of rum, sans juice, at a cost of $4 USD. The beer arrives in liters and costs less than $1 USD. We [...]