Kasbah, citadel. Sanctuary in the heart of Chefchaouen. Fresh oranages, fresh greens hidden in plain sight. We were the people eating outside under the umbrellas earlier, oblivious to the entirely different world, the one beyond the old stone walls in front of us. 


Chefchaouen, the blue city. Instagram-Pinterest-digitally-famous city, once sleepy, now overrun. People from all over the world - European, Middle-Eastern, Asian, Australian, African, South American people on the hill with us, watching the sunset. A girl from Jordan took our picture. Our hotel host had lived in Paris, Portugal, and Fes. And while it was very [...]

Riad Laaroussa Hammam

An evening at the hammam; tranquil, quiet, concealed. A contrast to the outside world, the medina from which we escaped as the sunset. The hammam, a bathing ritual, was our treat, a certain indulgence, but also an experience that we had been told we must have. Traditionally, a hammam is performed in the public bathhouses [...]

Chouara Tannery

The Chouara Tannery in Fez has existed for nearly one thousand years. Every day, every year, every moment ever since, it has operated exactly as it has since the beginning. Vats of cow urine, pigeon excrement, quicklime, salt, and water under the Moroccan sun.  Fresh animal carcasses submerged. The smell is vile; inhaling is made possible [...]

Fez Riad

Inside Riad Les Oudaya, our palace home during our stay in Fez. Quiet in the off-season, every bit as intricate. The courttard was stunning, the terrace view unparalleled. Bits of bread and crepes for breakfast. Jam, butter, olives, mint tea, silver teapot and all. We loved the riad, though it quiet literally wasn't what we [...]


Magical Morocco, a land of extremes. An exterior of chaos and crowds, concealong an interior of quiet, exslusive courtyards. The riads, palaces, literally hidden behind bland stone walls; you could never suspet their presence. The smells are strong. Repugnant - trash, carasses, leather. Then, sweet - fresh orange, oils, mint, jasmine. The people are so [...]