Kotor

Kotor

  A return to Kotor. Glorious, to find it intact, just as I had remembered it. To see the light reflect on the bay water again and know for certain I had never imagined it; it is real. And now, I have other people with me to bear witness to this magic and to see [...]

Dubrovnik

Dubrovnik

  White, walled city. Orange roofs, overflows of people. Cobblestone streets and cruise ship crowds. No space. No room to wander. Too many people, until the rain drives most away. Empty, silent, grand. A glimpse of what it once was.  To be honest, the crowds in Dubrovnik were a bit overwhelming, especially when compared to [...]

Korčula

Korčula

  All of Korčula Island smells of orange trees and tastes divine. Fresh air, blue sky, blue sea. Bright. Empty roads and empty shingle beaches. Sweet bitter wine, sun on the terrace. Wild. Hair, uncontrolled, in the wind.  ___ Day 4, Shoulder Season Balkans Road Trip We crossed the border easily into Croatia, back into [...]

Mostar

Mostar

  Mostar; slow hum of a call to prayer. Slippery stone steps, smiling faces, eager to share stories. Streets, destroyed by war, rebuilt so soon. The same streets are busy, crowded, but everyone is happy to have the people here. It wasn’t this busy before the war, someone says. The war was less than thirty [...]

Krka

Krka

  A gorgeous day; the prettiest shades of colors - aqua, turquoise, green, blue, light. Cool waterfall mist, contrasting seventy-five degree April heat.  ___ Day 2, Shoulder Season Balkans Road Trip First stop after leaving Zadar at 10:30 am was a one hour drive east to Krka National Park to see the storied waterfalls. It [...]

Zadar

Zadar

  Zadar; slow, soft, sea organ humming. Hypnotic. Aqua blue lapping against the purplegreyblue silhouette of island hills. Dogs run in the park, and children dance on the lights. Old Town tumbles into High Street. The cobblestones shimmer. A church towers overhead. Everything is surrounded by blue. ___ Day 1, Shoulder Season Balkans Road Trip [...]